Scroop Patterns
Minette Stays (1785-1810)
This a digital PDF download. See 'About Your PDF' below for more details.
US$16
Sizes 30-56 in 3 size packs:
Difficulty: Intermediate 
The Minette Stays are lightly boned front-lacing short stays or ‘jumps’. Inspired by extant garments and period images, they are designed to be worn under the rising waistlines and softer silhouettes that dominated women’s fashions in Europe and the Eastern Americas in the late 18th and early 19th century.
The instructions include directions for making them fully handsewn in the period style, or for using modern methods with machine sewing and metal eyelets.
Both views feature three main pattern pieces, front lacing, bound edges, and a tabbed bottom edge that finishes above the natural waist. Woven tape or ribbon shoulder straps slipped through eyelets at front and back keep the outline of the stays as discreet as possible under lightweight dresses.
View A has a deeply scooped front neckline designed to sit below the nipples, and minimal boning. Stitching along the empty boning channels acts as quilting to add strength to the stays. View A fastens with spiral lacing.
View B has a higher neckline which ends just above the nipples, additional boning at the back and sides, and laces with cross lacing.
Mix and match the amount of boning, the style of front lacing, and the front or back strap ties between views.
Recommended Fabrics:
Tightly woven midweight lines & cottons in plain and twill weaves (historically accurate). Coutil, tightly woven upholstery fabrics, denim or any other midweight, firm and stable natural fiber fabrics.
The lining and outer may be of the same fabric, or different fabrics, but both fabrics should be strong, firm, and stable.
The fabric requirements include allowance for directional fabrics. Additional fabric is required for pattern matching.
Sizing Chart:
...Alethea is wearing View A in Size 38 in two layers of tightly woven white cotton fabric bound with cotton twill tape, with ties and lacing of the same tape.
Alethea is wearing View B in Size 36 (for a larger lacing gap) in gold floral viscose-blend upholstery fabric with tightly woven cotton lining, bound in silk-cotton bias tape with polyester satin straps and front lacing.
About your PDF:
This pattern is a digital download. Once you complete your purchase you’ll be sent an email with a link to download a zip file containing your printable files. You’ll need to open it on a computer: the zip file will not open on phones and tablets.
The Minette Stays are designed to print using the 'Layers' function of Adobe Reader.
The Minette Stays zip file contains the following files:
- Instructions: 20 pages
- Print-At-Home Pattern: 8 pages (Size Pack A), 10 pages (Size Pack B), 12 pages (Size Pack C
- Copyshop Pattern: 1 A1 page
- Printing Instructions: 4 pages
- Fitting Guide: 5 page
Paper Patterns:
A paper version of the Minette Stays pattern is available through Virgil's Fine Goods in the USA.
About the Pattern and Additional Historical Information:
- Making Linen Buckram: Gum Tragacanth vs Xanthan Gum (blog)
- How to add Bust Gussets to the Minette Stays (blog)
Social Media:
